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However, I followed him to the chancel, and there, upon one of the choir stalls, he pointed me out a rakish looking little carved devil, whose face was an excellent likeness of the "Grand Old Man. I wonder is this a coincidence or a ponderous Belgian joke? These choir stalls are wonderfully beau- tiful, the carvings are very elaborate and each is unique, being adorned with a figure of a saint, an angel, a monk or a devil.

The first day I visited the Cathe- dral, the caretakers were draping them in rich black silk hangings, with heavy clieuiile fringe and gold braid, and presently they set up a hideous black screen behind the high altar, completely covering up "fat Mrs. Rubens," on which screen were cross bones, skulls and other cheerful designs in white, and the guide told uie the gruesome layout was in preparation for a grand funeral, to take place on the morrow, and which he advised me to attend.

One day he enquired if I had done so. Really the funeral was very interesting. The coffin stood under an enormous canopy before the altar, and priests and choristers chanted for about an hour round it. A man with a bass viol stood at the foot of the cotiin, and a priest on either side of him sang lustily. The sweet tones of the organ swelled plaintively in the music of a funeral service, and the vast body of spectators, mourners and friends crossed themselves devoutly.

Two extraordinary looking lieings, with shovel hats and square pieces of crape thrown over them, appeared with armfuls of long wax dip candles, which they lit and distributed to the friends in attendance. The friends then began a procession round the coffin, pausing to kiss some small article held up by the liead priest or bishop maybe to tlieir lips.

I forgot to say that there was a collection taken up, but ' ' cela va sans dire. A very heautiful olijoct of interest, also, is the carved pulpit, upbourne on the heads of four female figures — Europe, Asia, Africa and America — surrounded by the most lovely stair case, wreathed with olive and vine leaves, and full of birds, squirrels, cherubs, and a dozen other delicate and dainty forms, and surmounted by a wooden canopy, over which hovers a seraph, blowing the trumpet of warning.

Speaking of this pulpit reminds me of another in St. Andrew's Church. It is even more beautiful than the one I have described, representing the calling of St. In an enclosure at the foot of the rocky column supporting it are the disciples in their beached boat, listening to the call of the Savioui', who stands beckoning to tliem from tlie shore.

Under the canopy is suspended a fair little dove with outstretcheil wings, while al ove stand some sturdy little cherubs, supporting a St. Andrew's cross. This minute and delicate wood-carving needs to be closely examined to be appreciated, and the faitlifulness of every detail, the fairy stianda of the torn net, the rugged faces of the listening fishermen, tiie gracious aspect of the beckoning Savioiu', are all perfection.

After our first morning in the -athedral, I began to feel the weariness of my early rising, and retired for a good sleep before lunch to my sky parlor. The Colonel and the Doctors toiled up, like tlie spider and the fly, by "a winding stair," or ratlier by four such weary contrivances, and as I, being ahead, paused on tlie last landing to throw back a word of encouragement, ti.

I had another laugh at my Katerina's preparations for my repose. A gilded cream jug, holding about a pint of water, and an equally decorated slop basin formed my washing apparatus. I fished out my soap from the carryall, and daintily dabbed my face with a small quantity of water, then I investigated my surroinidings once more, up the three steps to the Dormer win- dow, looking appreciatively over at the Cathedral spire, and as the sweet chimes sang out twelve o'clock noon, I fell asleep in a real bed, boon most grateful, after the tliirteen nights' sojourn in the narrow confines of a berth aboard the "good ship Noordland.

Y triple escort, military, professional and clerical, invited me to take a drive next morning and see some of the highways and byways of the city. Turning north from the "Place Verte," we entered a wide boulevard, the Avenue des Arts, where the double row of trees in the centre of tlie street and the fine he ises on either side, gave one the idea that quaint old Antwerp could be modern and luxurious when she pleased.

Between the Avenue Rubens and the Avenue Quinten Metsys, we found a charm- ing little three cornered park, where I afterwards heard a good band play, as I cooled and rested myself on a certain torrid afternoon. Then we came upon the Zoological hardens, which are said to be the finest on the Continent, and where we alighted to see the animals fed. Lions, seals, and two great hippopotami in an enormous tank, also some greedy pelicans and other water birds.

These gardens are very spacious, beautifully arranged and adorned with majestic trees and rare flowers, anda. We found the "lecturer" to l e an extraordiuiary old Belgian without any teeth, whose mumbling French was too funny for anything. He gave us a voluble des- cription of the battle scene, which we did not in the least understand, and I was much amused when on enquiring the difference between a chassepot rifle and a needle gim, the old lecturer hopped nimbly over the railing, right down into the battle field, and selecting two guns from the debris of plaster of paris soldiers, horses and munitions of war, brought them to me that I might examine them and see for myself.

I suppose he argued that a dead soldier would not care and why nt Ae. I do not know a more striking study of contemplative abstraction than an old Belgian peasant, as lie stands with his shoulders propped against the wall, his hands tucked, xmder his flowing blouse, deep into his voluminous breeches pockets, his peaked cap pulled forward over his brows, his wooden shoes, in all their iiideous bigness, squarely set on the stone pavemerit, and his long stemmed, big bowled, painted pipe, from whicli he puft's an almost inperceptible cloud of smoke and which seems as much a part of liimself as his fat?

Bartholdi's "Liberty" and the Loos monument in Antwerp are low enough down to be admired by unfeathered bipeds, and to be impressive by their nearness and Itigness, while ever such a fine statue poised sky higli oidy gives one an ache in tiie neck to look at. We pass.. Place vette, issuing from the plain old doorway.

Down stairs leather hung room after room, of uninteresting family portraits, oal in6t,s, glass cases containing illuminated missals, for one of which the guardian tells us the British Museum has offered the City of Antwerp the trifling sum of eighty thousand pounds. It is needless to say the bid was in vain, for these venerable articles are to all intents priceless. Rows of glass cases full of specimens of wood and copper and steel engravings, a library of many volumes, and above all, the first antique printing presses, set in a row, with ink pads, type, and all tilings just ready for use.

There is also a rickety and wonderful old musical instiument, a sort of a pre- Adamite piano, witli a double manual at the usual place in a grand piano, and a single one about half way down one side This relic is enclosed in a glass case, secure from the saci'ilegious fingers of that bete-noir of antiquities, the American tourist.

The house encloses a dear old paved courtyard, the walls whereof are festooned with a lovely grape vine, which liides the rough grey stones with a b. Here and there among the queer rooms stand men in uniform, the caretakeis of this old curiosity sliop, and they tell one all sorts of inteiestiug stori: , and incidents ot tlie museum and tlie city. After we had seen the place thoroughly, and taken a peep at the fortifications and gotten some money from the bank, and sent a cablegram from the telegraph oHice, and admireil the lovely open ironwork of the "Bourse," and seen a dozen queer sights to record which my memory refuses, my dear old Colonel and liis Doctor bade us a regretful adieu, and left for "Amsterdam and those other dam places," as tlie Colonel in- formed me with unintentional and unconscious profanity.

In the afternoon I did the "ancient" picture gallery and had my first experience of what was many times repeated during my lioliday. How I longed to make a bonfire of many of the diabolical and awful scenes and distorted anatomies of those good old souls whose frightful paintings claim respect solely on account of their age. A night mare of horrors are some of the religious scenes with their wooden- leggeil saints, and distorted tientls, who slice pieces oft' the already emaciated mar- tyrs and playfully run hot irons into their ears, or drop molten lead in their mouths, or play other giddj practical jokes upon them.

And here I first met two or three old standbys, whom I got to know by instinct in the days and picture galleries to come. There was poor Saint Sebastian ; how many dozen of him I gazed upon, stuck as full of arrows as an old maid's pincushion of pins, tied to a tree or a post, sitting like a fretful porcupine in the centie of a group of sympathising virgins, standing triumphant with lU'lks I mean irrows, all pulled out of him, and just as good as new.

I got quite familiar with every pos- sible and impossible phase of his martyrdom, poor dear. And liow many plucky little Davids with giant heads by the hair one David had a velvet doubtlet, a lace collar, and an ostrich feather in his hat! Francises and St Cecilias. In the modern gallery at Antwerp are some very beautiful effects, one in oils of a piece of gold brocade and mauve satin was the most perfect thing I ever saw.

Tlie very creases of the rich material shone and shimmered until you coulil almost pick it up and handle it. There was a peculiar picture the meaning of which was explained to me by a brisk little Frenchwoman, whom I rescued from a slough of despond when her English forsook her, in showing the "lions" to her two English aunts. In the evening of this bnsy day my German friend, the dentist, turned up to in- vite me to go with hir.

We took a decidedly seedy little street car, and on the way we unexpectedly witnessed a lively encounter with bare knuckles between two old maiket women, in the calm evening sunset. Our driver stopped iiis horses and gazed on the tight with much interest, the women's sabots Hew ott', their caps followed suit, and they clawed each other until their hair stood on end and they were obliged to pause for lack of l reath.

It was so funny, thougli rather startling, that I could not remember to be shocked at them, and the other passen- gers in the car laughed heartily and seemed thoroughly to enjoy the "mill. I saw one vegetable cart owned by a handsome young peasmit woman and j ro- pelled by three dogs harnessed abreast, tiie first a greyhound, the next a huge mastiff', while ttie nigh steed was a ridiculous white shaven poodle, with ruft's of iuiir on liis ankles, if dogs have ankles and a tuft tm the end of his tail.

The peasant walked behind the cart, juietly knitting, with lier lace cap with long ear laps and mob crown, her blue jacket and shoit skirt, her pink cotton hose and black sabots, and her observant grey eyes taking in evei-ything, wliile hei- natty team trotted along their familiar road to the market, ienerally these Belgian women marched about the streets bare-headed, their hair neatly braided and coiled in a knot behind, in rain or shine their only headgear.

We pay a franc apiece and enter I am immensely amused at my young dentist allowing me to Ituy my own ticket, but he does so without any compunction! Everyone kept perfectly still when the first number was being rendered, with a beautiful sense of the fitness of things, and everyone seemed to listen appreciatively, and piece succeeded piece, operatic, classi ;al, popular, a charming arrangement from "Lakme," gems of Gounod, Schubert, Schumann and iung'l, played with finished execution and perfect expression, quite a treat of sweet things to my den- tist and me.

Between the parts we strolled about, spying out somt' old shipmates at a far-off beer table, and peeping into the grottos for ices, grot'. The second part of the program was over at half-past ten, when we turned homeward weary, but satisfied with the day's pleasures. I bade my good cavalier a drowsy good night, and toiled up my four flights of stairs, cheered by the thought of that cosy curtained nest awaiting me, and "cuddled doon" in its snowy softness to sleep the sleep of contentment, and I wish only for more such happy days full of interest and amusement, as I scamper over the unknoM'n parts before me, I ex- tinguish a candle, my sole means of illumination about the size of my finger and set in a preposterously high candle stick, and with a jumble of sights and sounds, new and delightful kaleidoscoping through my brain, fall sweetly asleep to' the musical jangle of the silvery Cathedral chimes.

One exception, to prove the rule, met me the day I left Antwerp, and it came about in this wise. But the name of the hospital? Elizabeth, the tram will conduct Madame to the door, and then the grand new hospital. I will fetch the direction for Madame. I was shown into the bursiir's room, where stood a tine soldierly looking Helgo, with a handsome beard, who requested me to be seated until he had finished copying some letters in a letter press, when he would be pleased to attend me.

To my recpiest to be shown the hospital, he assented with cheerful alacrity, and at 12 o'clock we commenced our grand tour of the 34 wards, walking and talking for two solid hours, he explaining everytliing even to the most minute details in a manner truly continental, that is to say, delightfully polite and appallingly inuiiodest.

None but a Belgian baby could wear such things and live. He showed nie the great stone paved kitchens, with their caldrons full of dinner, and also a little scullery, wh. There he showed me the very ancient Churcli of. I liave given this little story of continental politeness at length, because T heard so nuich grumbling among Americans about tlie necessity of feeing everyone before tliey will be civil to you.

My Antwerp buisai' may be a man witli a soul above fees, but the scantness of tlie remuneration he gets from the hospital makes me sure he is not, only lie is but one of the many to whom I own my indebtedness for in- formation, for service, oi' for entertainment, who were not and would not be re munerated. The ordinary feeing that one must do at the hotels and railways is so small that it wf uld need a churl to refuse it, that is, if one follows the rate of the country, but the ti-ouble with Americans is, that they take their own rate of fees with them to the Continent and give a mark or two or a couple a francs, where a fourth jiart of that sum is all that is expected by the servants.

I particularly no- ticed this when conversing with a young New York lawyer on the subject. I had no porter's fee, for I had no baggage, nor no boot-b! As a German said to me, in discussing railway fares, "Only princes and fools travel first-class here," and certainly the American tourist comes under one of these two heads in the hotel servant's simple mind. In looking over a railway time-table that last morning in dear old Antwerp, I decided to take a glance at Brussels, the lace workers, the field of Waterloo, the carpet factories, or whatever else J could take in, in a couple of days.

It was only forty or fifty minutes by rail from Antwerp, and I knew I should be pressed for time on the homeward route. I'lie Colonel and the Doctor were exploring the Hague, the young tooth-puller was witli his ''mutter" in Wiesbaden, the Spanish lady and her family in Paris, the Chicago parson had disappeared and made no sign, so that I was the last of the party to bid adieu to the little landlord, his ponderous wife, and pretty winsome Katerina. IM' II!

American family, of mother and three nice, dark-eyed daughters, and I feel like pausing over them a lit'le because they were amongst the few females of my own nation- ality who did tlieir country credit among the many, many Americans I saw abroad. I used to wonder at them. They had been all over Europe, north, south, east and west, but they could not take me with them in a retrospective chat. But I understood better the want when I had seen some of them, with courier, maid, and every comfort to be bought with money, or, worse still, those awful female parties of strong-minded leader and weak- minded following, who wrangled and jangled, and sulked and chewed gum, though the heavens were opened in an Alpine thunderstorm, or the holy brow of ".

They would ruin the green glades of Eden if they were turned loose within its bounds. The avei-age loquacious American would have told me her state and city, her husband's peculiarities, or, were she "maid,' her "par's" or her brother's, or the nearest male relative available; would have so steeped the very air with her own individual concerns, and her likes and dislikes, that one might as well have been in New York or Chicago in an "elevated" train; would have made my head buzz with her questions as to my seeings, and intendings, and thinkings, and I should have entered "Little Paris" with a heart full of rage and a face full of frowns.

Not so these iweet girls. We talked every inch of the way, but when we parted I knew they were from New York by the name in a novel one of them carried, and perhaps they noticed my initials on my carryall, but they confined their charming conversation to descriptions of a picture here, a drive there, a view from such a place, an opera to be heard in some other, and T treasured up their hints, and owe them many a pleasant hour.

One, the eldest, with a sweet won- dering face, like a Raphael Madonna, had been three months with friends in Rome, and grew gently excited ovei' continental manners and customs. I am glad the girls weren't with us. The Romans are so — but perhaps you'll see for yourself," with a check to her strictures. Yes, we went out to Waterloo — the coach and four goes every afternoon from the Hotel Bellevue on the hill. There is nothing to be seen on the battle tield but a lot of beets and turnips, and an immense mound, with the British lion on top" — here she gave a little quaint smile.

I can show you a plioto of it in a moment," and she did so. Perhaps it was owing to this slighting account that I did not drive out in the great coach to view the scene of England's gloiy. I once made a trip to Bannockburn, and felt some such flattening out as my American friend confessed to ; a plain field, perhaps being peacefully ploughed, or diligently sewn with Swedish turnips or Scottish 'neeps, isn't the gory similitude one fancies.

He named several, and finally one which he thought was the best, in the "Wolf's ditch" street. Accordingly, he escorted me to the omnibus belonging to this hotel, and we soon arrived in front of an unpretentious looking solid hostlerie, built round a paved courtyard. A white haired, benevolent looking conoierge assigned me to a Viry pretty room overlooking the courtyard. Peeping out, I could see a fountain, cages of singing l irds, grottos of ferns and Howeis, chairs and little tables — quite a new and pretty scene — and presently 1 found my way down through a tiny drawing-room, into the little court.

Across from the tlrawing-room 1 found the dining-room, and remembering what time it was nearly four o'clock and that I had had no lunch after my protracted hospital experience in Antwerp, I ordered a lunch, or " dejeuner," as one must call it here. A few cents more added a wee flask of German beer. As I enjoyed it, I was mightily amused at a juvenile waiter, wlio happened to be idle at the time — idle as far as liis tabic duties went — but he was working hard. He had a small phrase book of French and English terms, and was apparently striving to couniiit to memory the English names and descriptions of the food he was in the habit of serving.

At first, with intent, puzzled face, he muttered piietly enough, then, as he grew oblivious and interested, his voice grew louder, and distinctly across the quiet room came sometliing like this; "G-r-r-een tea, black tea, potatoes, boiled or fried — g-r-r-een tea, boiled or fried, black tea, boiled oi' fried 1" A party of English people sitting near me were mightily diverted by this unique cookery, and amid numy smiles from all of us, the head waiter went gently and admonished the eager student, and we heard no more of tea, eitlier boiled or fried.

I asked the concierge to get me a carriage after dejeuner, and he sent for a dainty little Victoria, and a small boy to drive. This urchin was about ten years old, apparently, and was gotten up exactly like a coachman — tall hat, buff breeches, long boots and tail ooat, with Ijrass buttons. I had to smother a smile at his comical little figure when he spread the duster over me, chattering glibly in French, and taking my veiy meagre instructions.

Pres- ently he pulled up beside a grand church. Thereupon I lost the last remnant of free will, and was led hither ant thither at the hand of the small boy, feeling like a savage beast in the time of Millennium. In this Cathedral is another of those lovely carved pulpits, at the base of which Adam and Eve are flying before the sword of the angel, who drives them without the gates of Eden, the man despairing, the woman agonized and protesting, while coiled up near by is a most "deceptions" looking serpent.

Above the canopy the Virgin and her babe triumph over the same serpent, thus meekly illustrating sin entering the world through a woman, and salvation in due time coming under her cradling love. Ste Gudule being of the female persuasion makes this design very apropos. Near the pulpit is the throne of King Leopold, with a crimson velvet canopy and curtains, and a great gold crown on top, and where the verger tells me I can see the good King at two o'clock next Sunday, that being the hour of the service he always attends.

On either side of the chancel hang large Gobelin tapestries, very red and very ugly, and down the nave are rows of laurel trees on pedestals, part of the decorations annually put up during the fete of the Saored Heart, which is happening just now. After the Cathedral had been inspected, my charioteer took me to see the lace workers.

As we stopped before the door a pretty girl came out, and with great heartiness welcomed me in, and showed me the women at work on various pieces of black and white lace. Poor things! The lace niakera go blind in a very few years after working on fine patterns, and there is an asylum near here in which three hundred victims of lace making grope about the darkened rooms.

I never can look at the fairy, delicate leaves and Howers of a bit of Brussels lace without feeling again the sharp, needle-like pain, and seeing the red-stained eyes of those poor lace makers. From the lace workers the small boy drove me up the hill to see the chamber of the Ministers of State, the Pare Royale and the Pal- ace of the King. The Water- loo coach was just drawing up at the door, and we drove slowly by and watch- ed the tourists clind down, after their long drive, is. Afterwards 1 took a little time at th«!

Justice, an enoi'iiious and magnificent pile, looking protectingly down oM the pretty city. From it one gets a good birdseye view of busy Brussels, and that is juite an impressive and charm- ing sight. When the small boy had brought mu I'ALAIS DE II' home in safety, after one of the pleasantest drives I ever enjoyed, and had received his modest charge of one dollar, and a franc extra for himself, I went in to dinner, and was placed at a table witli three Colorado peo- ple, a brother and two sisters, who were yet another type of A mer i - can tourists.

We drove out and saw the monunuuit ; it was real nice, and it was such a nice day for a drive. Sister and I thought it was all just as nice as it could be I" "And was it not. It is in the English History, and at. It's a real nice drive. I was mightily amused at these harmless owls, and especially at Bert's pirting shot, coming as it did from a youngster who had crossed a continent to, as it were, get started on his travels. I did not see them again, but I know what they will say when they reach their little Colorada home.

It was a bright sunshiuing morning when I wakened to hear the singing of the birds, and the wooden shoes of the butcher, baker, and candlestick -maker clatter- ing through the paved courtyard ; also to execrate a youngster wlio was patiently thumping the "iSwanee River" out of a discordant piano.

I had several letters to write, and betook myself, after breakfast, to the tiny drawing-room, where I was not destined to long enjoy my seclusion, for the fatherly concierge came presently to remonstrate on my neglect of the invitation of so charming a day. An old gentleman, wlio was poring over a little book, took in the situation and, after putting away his reading and taking off an enormous pair of spectacles, proceeded to mildly harangue the conductor in thiswise, "So should you instruct, Madame," he said slowly and impressively, "and as Madame is strange, explain and inform her of all things.

Thus shall you aid Madame to make an agreeable tour. The old gentleman mildly ejaculated "C'est bien," and went deliber- ately back to his studies. Is it not the destinatitm of. I laughed again at my mistake, tlie old gentleman laufjiied with me, and the ormductor joined in, and then the old gentleman assured me that I had come to a very pretty and interesting suburb, if I had ti lie to explore it, and that he would be pleased to direct me, if I would allow him the honor.

With a confidence that was not misplaced, I surrendered myself to hie patriprchal keeping, and he con- ducted me first through the Cemetery of Laeken, where we wandered up and down the trim paths, and admired several handsomely carved monuments, and saw thousands of graves with woven wire beaded memorial wreatiis, and under- ground the queerest looking vaults, like rows of bread ovens, ana at last the great lion of the cemetery, the tomb of the Cantatrice Ma'.

My anti- quated friend related to me the story of the war of , when Belgium shook ofl" the Dutch yoke, and in the midst of his pretty French sentences stopped and apologised for inflicting such a school l oy story upon me. It is so kind of you to instruct me. At present it is n»t possible to visit the interior of the palace, as their Majesties are at home, but the beautiful monument in the Park, to the memory of that King whose remains lie below us in this church, must be seen and admired.

Its form is nonagon— one side for each of our nine provinces, and much thought of by us. Adieu, Madame, no, do not thank nie! I am in your ilebt. Ah, me! Shall we ever see it? A fine carriage came sweeping along the narrow road, wherein were two 'adies and a young girl, and as they leaned luxuriously l ack and returned my look, I concluded I had seen some one of note, but my attention was attracted by the ar- rival on the scene of a second carriage, which came more slowly, and was accom- panied by several oflicers on horselmck.

I Imcked up against the hedgerow, out of the dust, and quite unpremeditatedly found myself executing a most wonderful salaam, for it flashed upon me by instinct that now, for the first time, I looked upon the face of a real live king!

He sat erect and soldierly in his handsome uniform, and lifted iiis hand in a sort of salute, with a kindly smile on his good old face, and left me with a vivid picture of his snowy hair and moustache and his big, powerful figure, and quite pleased with myself to think I had had sense enough to be respectful on such short notice. Not until I'd seen a good photo of his Belgian Majesty was I quite sure that I'd not made another mistake, but one glance assured me that on this occasion at least I'd not lost my way.

My con- cierge friend quite approved of the whole adventure, and after dejeuner and getting one letter written, he started me off again, this time recommending me to walk the short distance that lay between the hotel and the park. I soon recog- nised my route of the evening before, recognised also my small driver, who immediately accosted me with a request to be allowed to get the carriage and drive me about again.

It was a warm afternoon, and I was very thirsty, so seeing a grand bunch of grapes on a china plate in a little fruit shop I determined to buy them and eat them under the shady trees of the Pare Royal, while T listened to the music of the military band. The Pare was lovely, the band played spiritedly, and I thoroughly enjoyed sit- ting on a comfortable chair watching the crowds of strollers who passed and repassed, chattering, laughing, and having a regular continental good time.

The numbers of diverse uniforms was a thing to be noticed. At one time eleven dif- ferent styles were within a stone's throw of me, and some were quaint enougli for a calithumpian procession. Groups of unmistakably English people were here i i i I. They read and made remarks in audible voices about the women and men around them.

It really wearies one to watch them. Look at that fellaw — goes as if he pawstively had wires inside of him," and the group all turned to his directing nod, and stared their blanktst. Presently I was disturbed by noticing a queer looking poverty- stricken individual who seemed to be eyeing me narrowly. He passed and re- passed, every time coming a little closer, and the closer he came the less I liked him.

I was just about to move away, from foolish nervousness, when he marched straight up to me and held out his hand. I speedily took in the situation, and paid my penny tax, and my chair tender took himself off and began to eye some other tired mortal. I have often laughed since to think how nervous he made me. There are charmingly stylish shops in Brussels, and I have a grateful recollec- tion of a colonnade where I bought some of the best gloves I ever wore, for the extravagant price of seventy cents.

The demoiselle who fitted them on for me was much harder to please than I, for she pronounced the first and second she tried on as unhappy fits, and did not rest until she found some tliat were a pleas- ure to wear. After buying my ticket, I was about to resign myself to half. TJi hour's waiting, when tlie porter suddenly rushed back, exclaiming, "Tliere is yet time! Oo, also, change and wait at Verviers. An English lady, her children and ierinan nurse were in the coupe when I was so hurriedly bounced in upon them.

A few laughing words of apology and a seat was cleared beside Manui, and we had such a delightful chat. Unfortunately there was oni' otlier passenger, an ancient, ugly lermau frau, who insisted on having her window shut though we sweltered and suffocated, and shed our dust- cloaks and bonnets and gloves, and besought her in our choicest language for gracious permission to breathe the fresh air of heaven. We were quite relieved and happy when she alighted and was met by two generations of her descendants, all as ugly as the original.

The trip from Brussels to Cologr. At the latter station, which is a very handsome one, we had lunch, delicious iced milk, bread and fruit. The sandwich 1 ordered was a very primitive affair, simply a small loaf cut in two, with a "chunk" of very much cooked beef between, no butter, salt, or mustard.

Here, also, I had an experience of continental manners, which my pen bums to transcribe, but I forbear. The I had quite forgotten that we were almost on the German frontier, and that the guardians of the Vaterland would be after my carryall, and a hideous memory of the hurly- burly in darkness, squabbling and hustling that I had witnessed In silent wrath at Huspension Bridge, came between me and my peace of mind. Presently we ar- rived at Herbestal, all the coupe doors were thrown open, and a squad of "Deuts- chers" in uniform emerged from the station house and marched towards us.

An immense blonde moustache, a pair of blue eyes, and some guttural sounds blocked up our doorway, making the old fat lady tighten her grasp on her gripsack, and gasp out with many headshakings, "No, No! I aint bought a cent's worth since I landed! I had a little fun with myself at the entirely satisfactory interview in English and German, and was glad, once more, that I had no trunk to look after. Soon came the outskirts of a big city, and the wide, dirty, swift-rushing Rhine, and the fairy steeples of Cologne Cathe- dral, and a gaunt lanky porter who takes me and my belongings to the Dom Hotel, which I had selected because it was directly beside the "Lion" of Cologne.

From my window I look across a little paved and tesselated square to the immense pile, that has struggled slowly through all these decades to perfection. At Antwerp the Cathedral is hemmed in and surrounded by little shops and buildings that cluster almost under its portals, but here, as in" Ste iudule, the grandeur and the greatness have room.

Then, the inner woman being satisfied, I took a short walk down a street where I came upon two fine monuments, and back again to my square, and round the Cathedral. I would not go in, as it was growing dusk, but saved the first sight of the interior until the morrow, when I was to go to mass, like a good Catholic, and hear what a "little bird" had told me would fill me with delight, the singing of the choir.

I remembered how my informant had dwelt upon the blending and the swelling and the gradual dying away of the trained voices, down the vast aisles, and I enjoyed it all in anticipation. There were three Massachusetts girls at tiie Dom Hotel, who were setting out, as I got back, to buy Cook's tourist tickets through Central Germany and down the Rhine.

We had enjoyed our dinner together, and were now quite "chummy," so they invited me to "come along," and I did so. The Cook's people have an office just across the square, and there I watched them laying down gleefully the golden ten mark pieces, which had been so hardly earned in country school house or collegiate halls. They would have known all about the Dutch and lielgian disputations, and they did know a wonderful lot about the ups and downs of ierman state and army, and they had little, precise, self-willed ways of putting things, and infal- lible judgments on all the affairs of the universe, and I enjoyed them immensely.

We met the head waiter first, and I was deputed as being married and staid, and, more important, the only one who understood French, to elicit information from him about the sights and doings of Cologne after dark.

I think they "yodelled," but whatever they did it was very dreadful to listen to — my Yankee girls insisting upon my eating ice cream with them in a pretty little grotto, very neat and clean, and decorated with artificial stalactites and stalagmites of crystal, which gave it on this warm sum- mer evening, a cool and refreshing appearance. When the singing began, we hur- ried over our ices and quitted the Kaiser-garten, taking a pleasant walk on the low level banks of the Rhine, from whence one can return to tlie city by steamer for a few cents.

When we reached the hotel we told our waiter he must never do so any more, and watched him with great amusement as he tried to apologise. He was what one of the school teachers called a "monkey man," light and active, clever and polyglot, with the most extraordinary grimaces and contortions and sudden giggles, but a very good waiter, and anxious to have us see everything that Cologne afforded of amusement and instruction. I washed my hands of him after his "garten," and pinned my faith on the concierge who was a fair childlike look- ing young German, with a hideous peaked cap and a golden beard.

She was so funny and so good natured. They are shocked at me for going to "Mass," and so, much to my relief, they leave me to go alone, themselves writing letters until the orthodox hour of eleven o'clock starts them to the English Church. The inside of the Catliedral rather disappointed me. I looked for the lovely wood carvings of Antwerp and Brussels and found them not, but the music was all and more than my fancy had painted it.

That gradually dying away of the mellow basses, the soaring tenors, the sweet boy altos and sopranos, and the mag- nificent organ, was the loveliest effect I ever heard. Immense space and perfect modulation combined to produce it. After Mass I went to the English Chapel, with an Australian clergyman and his wife, a queer, nervous, mistrustful pair, whom I won into confidence by my in- satiable thirst for Australian news, and my unfeigned interest in what has always been a land of conjecture and curiosity to me.

The English Chapel is a queer lit- tle flat-roofed building, down a narrow street, just off the square ; the room was jammed, and very warm and close ; the organ and the choir were a parody on a backwoods meeting house, but, somehow, even that asthmatic squalling was able to touch the heart of a lone woman many thousands of miles from home. After table d'hote, I and the school ma-ams foimd a cosy corner in the readmg room, and were about to keep ourselves out of mischief by going to sleep, when the head waiter invaded the sanctum and made for us, full of chatter.

What a pity. My ladies will go to the Kaiser-garten, oh, no, no, no, not Kaiser-garten, pardon! After tea we captured the Australians, who were looking very lonely and sang some oil -fashioned hymns, and chatted decorously until ten o'clock, and felt quite homeiike and pleased with ourselves.

I am disposed to boast of this model Sabbath, probably because it was almost the only one so well observed. Monday morning I went to the museum, or rather as we should call it, the pic- ture gallery, and spent nearly four hours there, sitting before some charming paint- ings, dodging the tortures of the martyrs, or admiring the beauties of other ages.

Among the modern pictures, one attracted and impressed me by its very diablerie. Imagine the corner of an old shed roof, in an ancient back yard, and perched thereon the most villainous looking old Tom cat you can fancj , rakish and wicked, and as natural as life, and this work of art bore the tenderly suggestive legend, "At the Rendezvous!

There was also here the famous portrait of the sweet young Queen Louise, the great grandmother of tha present Kaiser. In her long white satin "Empire" gown, edged with gold embroidery, and her short little waist tied in with narrow floating pink ribbons, her fair hair waving back under her little crown, from her broad innocent brow, her wide blue eyes and delicate nose and chin, her sweet rosy mouth, her tiny little satin-shod foot, step- ping 80 daintily down the marble steps of her palace, she is "a thing of beauty and a joy forever.

One sees photos and chromos of this painting in all the shop windows, it is of recent date, having been painted I think within the last fifteen years. The exact 'Kr ii date has escaped my memory. After dinner I thought of seeing a German hos- pital, and und r the direction of the concierge took my way into the city, seeing many curious things and people as I went.

Every now and then I heard behind me a clanking and clanging and a steady tramp, and had to step out of the way of a squad of soldiers, in the handsome "tin hats" and long boots of the "Ger- man," headed by an officer of decidedly warlike appearance, who directed the march with a look or a gesture, as he reined in his great horse and allowed us to ad- mire him, or else I stepped into a doorway in some narrow byway, to allow eight youthful recruits to wheel past me a cart apparently filled with round cordwood sticks, but really containing the long round loaves of black bread for their frugal barrack meal.

I found by and bye that the hospital I sought was too far to walk to, on so sultry an afternoon, so I found the Tram and reached it, thereby, in a few moments. I looked about for some fruit, but fruit here as in Brussels was scarce and dear, and only some mammoth gooseberries rewarded my search. Armed with a large paper bag full, I boldly marched into the hospital, and paraded about for some time, finding all the ward doors closed, but they being half glass, I could look into the wards. A queer looking bulky sister of Charity came down the corridor, and I accosted her in my transatlantic German, "May I give some fruit to the little ones?

I distr'buted my gooseberries and made them each Bay, "Thank you," and tell me what was the matter with them, I was then just as wise as before, but I thought it looked business-like, so I continued to the last one. I am sure Katerina wov. Ia have been proud of her German pupil could she have heard me.

A funny old ward tender who was shufUing round with a brush and dustpan, informed me that there was a "Sister" upstairs who could speak French, German and English, and I started in search of her. She held up her fat M hands and screamed with laughter, when I retailed the account I had received of her accomplishments, assuring me that the bad man had told me a wicked lie. Unfortunately he had only told the literal truth, for she mixed the three languages up in indescribable confusion that fairly bewildered nie.

She was very pretty and her bright eyes were dancing with fun, and she hurried me through several large wards of women and children, and cleverly contrived to humbug me out of visiting the men's wards at all. Au revoir, chere Madame. Yes, tliere are seven distinct bad sDiells in Cologne, and the smell in this Iiospital is one of the worst.

It was a horrid place, and I don't like to think about it. Our childlike concierge turned out to be a perfect treasure, so good and kind, and so ready to do any and everything for us. When I got back from the hospital, I found he had sent the lanky porter to se- cure a berth in the sleeping cars for me, in case I decided to go up to Hamburg that night. After tea the Darwinian waiter followed me out to suggest that I should take a walk "over the Rhine, by the great iron bridge," and he pointed out six great stone towers which shewed the lie of the bridge.

I tried i. It was early evening, and after paying my two pfennigs, f strolled across the passenger way, by the immense bridge, stopping many a time to watch the swift rushing Rhine on its race to the sea, and dawdling delightfully along my way. Dentz, and T could see far pontoon bridge, like a line breast. I hurried through lived at the bridge pier, band playing beautifully, tcring about. Another two Inirrying across the pontoon iio swift and so close, and watching the shadows gath- dral, and wishing very much still more, that I knew how Over the floating and along the cd into the first streets leading was dark and denly, justahead of workmen in out from a light- and gesticulat- ling, l locked up rONTOON 11RID.

This contretemps finally routed my failing courage, and rushing Imck once more to the pier, I aihlrossed the ticket taker, and n trembling Knglish quite forgetting my German, demanded to be shown my way home. He oourteously demanded my toll, and must have fancied I had very urgent business in Cologne, by the good time I made getting there. When I finally reached the Square and cooled off, I felt the length of the race I had accomplished, and was very well pleased to sit in the reading-room in quiet and safetj until the concierge called me to my train.

And 1 wasn't destined to quit Cologne without one last pleasant memory! The concierge after thanking me for my bill and his fee, pro- duced a very wide smile, and a very small wooden box, and blushing and stam- mering presented it me. And now for the sleeping cars! All that the German people had told me about them was true, and still not half true enough. One enters by the end platform, as in America, and proceeds by a narrow pass- age down one side, oft" which doors open into the compartments.

Fancy to yourself — four little red berths, spread with snow white sheets and real down pillows, cun- ning little red blankets, and fawn-colored curtains over door and window. I was lucky and had a compartment for ladies all to myself. An old porter in a sort of military uniform showed nie in, wished me "good night and good sleep," and that was the end of it until morning.

As the dear old Colonel would have said, "Now, this is first class. Slumborlantl, "It's good enough for anyone. The fish market was a picture for a student of low life, and I stared from the carriage window with great amusement, as we drove juickly through its odorifer- ous precincts. The flower girl wore the most extraordinary costume, peculiar, I am told, to one Island in the Elbe, from which she cajne every morning by one of the little steamers.

Her headgear was a sort of hood or cap of black silk, perched on the top of which was a ridiculous child's hat, in shape "a la liinois. The finishing touch to her costume was an enormous buck- ram bow, witli long stiff ends, that was fastened on the back of her head. This "flower girl" may have been forty or fifty or sixty years of age ; her grim weather- beaten face was as expressionless as though carved in wood, and she is one of the "sights" that open American eyes.

Here and there, on the principal streets one sees her and her sister curiosities, with great shallow trays of charming flowers, so sweet and so cheap, they are a delight! The Hotel St. Petersburg is one of many that stand on the pretty boulevard facing the Inner Liike oi" Alster, a lovely little sheet of water, artificially constructed by judiciously damming and deepening and widening an arm of the River Elbe, which once on a time stretched itself lazily and marshily up into Hamburg.

The Inner Lake is separated by an arched stone bridge from the Outer Lake, in which is a swan's house, and on whose shores are numerous villas, baths, hotels, and a charming lunch and dining hall, where the little steamers that dart peipetually across the Alster, carry many a passenger, who prefers that indolent mode of reacliing the spot to walking round by the shaded boulevard.

From the "Ausser Alster" also branch numerous canals, eacli with its own peculiar odor, and which wind back into the city anc'i float flat barges for freight of various descriptions. The street cars in Hambui-g are peculiarly built in two compartments, the forward of which separates one from the liability of being strangled with stale tobacco smoke, and they have five wheels, the fifth being a small steering wheel in front, connected by a brake on the right of the driver, and used to throw the cars, or more properly omnibuses, off and on the track.

It is amusing, in a narrow street, to see the great ponderous car turn oljligingly out of the way of a furniture wagon, that is "moving" a Hamburger's Lares and Pen- ates, and even as another car approaches, the driver has to turn off the narrow single track, careless of switclies, and rattle his passengers over the tiny cobble stones until the way is clear again. It is a great contrivance this usually scouted "fifth wheel on a coach," and it works very easily.

Another "sight" in Hamburg is a German nurse-maid. These young woman wear prmt gowns, aprons, and caps, like any other maids, except that tlieir arms are bare to the shoulder, and such arms for size and redness I never saw! They wheel their queer little charges in funny little wagons, or carry them on grand frilled and embroidered pillows, and one sees them by the score, round the shady boulevards that encircle the Inner Lake.

After brea. We puffed gaily off", and darting under the stone arches of the bridge, entered alas! It wasn't such a very little or odoriferous one, but I wasn't very well pleased at having omitted to enquire "Where? The charge for any of these little half hour sails is twenty pfennigs, about five cents, and I en- joyed the tour of the lakes later on.

I was turning away, grievously disappointed, when I was accosted in excellent English by a nice looking man, wlio ottered to explain my case to the officials. So we went at them again, but with no better luck, though really my letter was all the time in ihe office , and my companion finished liy expressing sorrow for my disappointment and handing me his card.

To my surprise I found he was a man well-known in the world's highest musical circles, and I exclaimed quite involun- tarily with pleasure. We had a long chat as we walked back to tlie Alster, or rather a torrent of questions and answers, and many a laugh interspersed, while I learned that the sweet singer was rusticating for his health and intended Norway and Sweden as his abiding place. The life is unique, and the Swedes are such dear good souls.

I have put the verb to smoke first in that sentence ; I should have put it last as well, for the beginning and end of a Hamburger's enjoyment is wreathed in tobacco smoke! I asked them point blank, if it were permitted to smoke while ladies were at the table, and they innocently begged me not to leave, as they wanted to ask all manner of things about America, if I'd be so amiable as to answer them.

I stayed, on condition that they deferred their cigars until their curiosity was satisfied, and tried to explain to their continental ignorance the superior eti uette of my native land. They translated my remarks from French to lerman for the benefit of a fat German and his frau who sat opposite, and the man laughed heartily wliile the woman scowled at me and put out her lip, with an air of the greatest scorn, saying in a tone full of defiance: "Smoke thou! These German fraus aie awfui to me, they fiown and grunt and put out their lips and gi-umble and growl to themselves like a small thunder- storm in their imcouth displeasure.

I answered all the questions my ac ]uaintance8 put to me as clearly as 1 could, and they translated the conversation to mein herr and the frau, V ut she only scowled the harder, and shook her head with an aiv of angry unlielief, that was so rude as to be funny. Finally my school ma-am friends rescued me from the foreigners, and we left them to smoke and chat over their wine in peace, while the frau sat back with folded hands and digested her very large dinner, and inhaled the smoke of all three cigars, like the veritable German that she was!

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Learn more about bidirectional Unicode characters Show hidden characters. Sing back what sung you in. Sister of myself. When I call her back to cradle. My song will make it so. I will sing. I have a gift. I confess: I am afraid. A dust ring. Maybe only. His hand. His hands. She was consoling to them.

What of our mechanical arm, our off-melody? Purpose in the gathering, I know, dear self. It rains and we think, God, or we think Universe. I say, portent across the wind. When wind is wrought, whole song fallen from its lip, some black unknown, where they say, time ends.

What speech into hard God breath just as night park is godless? What of a silver cube in the mouth? This is our wandering. I might need it to shoot somebody. She says, What do you think? What blast? So cool. No king. I can't cross over. Hey, you, girl with the twisted neck, your dollhouse will keep on shrinking between your dirty legs.

Not even holy water can make you clean. I ask. At that age, who knew filth could be forward. See its starting point? It banded, uncontrolled and gleaming. Not all worlds see the darkness. I said, I knew. I wanted to have my own grown romance. Do it now. Did they come? Stay preconscious. Pay attention. Let them drum our dented pots, let them screech happy carols, let them dance with tin spurs on their little feet.

Ghosts are unruly, free to be fickle, unlike me, the pig-tailed girl you kept strapped to the sewing machine in the shed of planks by the mango tree too old to fruit. Cut me out of those sepia photos on the wall, burn those baby braids you keep in porcelain, toss my first communion gown into the sea.

People drove in cars. Spanish moss harbored red mites. No one looked up. Lip-to-lip rock. Ah, from the base to the top. Again, in succession. Mouth and mouth. Not the knot. Yeah, sure. Who is not? A de-happening. All right, boys. This is only if the wind worries at all. We were once that idea. To hold the hot disc of it and place it in the grass.

Claws in tar. You turned the car around. Your turtle. Amid the chaos, reports of survivors. Hang your head out the window y dale un grito tan lleno de duende that it cracks the pavement, summons our dead to dinner.

Turn the tonal kaleidoscope. There, de-cypher that! The nerve! All power in heaven and in earth is. Be opened, daughter. No questions. All your mind. You are mine. Be opened. Use a chair if needed. I asked. If we win the lottery. Bagwell's ring? No earth, no heavens. Or you. As we are, D. Onion pulp? Cypress rings? Why are you wearing my clothes? The floors are stained with his keep.

Once I took him in he grew. Both feet dig into the burning sand. Especially not you, the daughter. Even a cult could move in. Were you born? I tremble every time you light that wood stove. Can houses tremble? The by-the-book. Us just under.

No wonder. Distilled to systole-diastole. Ab ovo. Ad absurdum. Ad fin. Fill your pockets. Break open the gate with your fist. Ditch it. Empty your pockets. Sharp shooters check the wind. Screech it. Collect the drool in tin. Pull out the nails. Run low to ground.

Cannon, yes, but without their kick. One is fascinated with lichens and other symbionts. Some just want the big life. One snores and never locks her doors. Rare relief springs from poetry and lying flat, cloud-searching on the grass. Pray for me. Get yours. Like ants; maybe she crawl in the dark. Of course the silence grew. The ocean floor. Brick dust cradle. Thumb place. The penny multiplies in swarms. I am too young to drive. I did not know what I was doing.

Earth is below! The Muckrakers! Another sip of old fashioned! The great steel safe doorcrashes shut. Who is this! The violins are ascending inevery direction! And who else to be stuck in? Creeleystumbling over his pecker? Spoon of the empty belly. Spoon for everyone. Trying, it appeared, to bang himself free. And, like any good god, I disappeared. But with things to do. Call it Horns, whistles, and soon sirens. And all the trees full of birds. Stay with me now. My mother wore sunglasses.

And long sleeves. And I watched. I listened. And watched. A lamentation of them? A lamentation. And the copulating swans. Its every flailing, its every animal song. Light only helps or ruins sight. I was cruel slash gentle. That was important. And drifted off. Did she want to go there, too. That was our selfishness. She insisted upon it. We all were. History poised also.

Now we pray to the real. The batter growing lighter by increments. My mother taught me to fold. The cake imperfect, but finished. Not a breath!

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John Martin Armiger was an Australian musician, record producer and composer. The Allniters are a Sydney-based Australian ska pop band, founded in Numerous changes occurred in band members with Fabok, Hill-Travis and Pattinson common to almost all line-ups. The Cheks were a power pop band active in — and based in Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

They are notable for having Paul Hester on drums. The lineup changed quickly with the departure of Steve White and the addition of Steve Carter. Hester was later drummer for Split Enz and then Crowded House. Cheks were moderately popular within the Melbourne and Sydney alternative music scenes. They were one of Australia's most respected and successful post-punk groups. Domestic Harmony achieved gold sales and contained their most played song, "Man Overboard", which was a top 5 hit single in This song was notable for its lyrical references to penis envy and pubic hair.

Sebastian Hardie were Australia's first symphonic rock band. By they developed a more progressive rock style, and later performed as Windchase , but disbanded in An early member of Sebastian Hardie was Jon English, who starred as Judas Iscariot in the Australian version of the stage musical Jesus Christ Superstar in , he subsequently had a solo career as a singer, actor and playwright.

A later member, Mario Millo became a multi-award winner for his television and movie music. The album has six tracks, which were written by lead vocalist Deborah Conway, drummer Dorland Bray, bass guitarist Helen Carter and guitarist Stephen Philip. The album has ten tracks, which were written by lead vocalist Deborah Conway, drummer Dorland Bray, bass guitarist Helen Carter and guitarist Stephen Philip.

Tim Gaze is an Australian rock and blues guitarist, songwriter, singer and producer. In April he issued a retrospective compilation covering both his group and solo work, Reckless Love: the Tim Gaze Anthology. Paul Kelly is an Australian rock musician. He started his career in in Hobart, Tasmania and has performed as a solo artist, in bands as a member or has led bands named after himself.

Some backing bands recorded their own material under alternate names, Professor Ratbaggy and Stardust Five, with Kelly as an individual member. Released in December , "Science Fiction", peaked at No. The Monitors were an Australian pop band of the early s. They were primarily a studio group which involved a collaboration between Terry McCarthy on vocals and keyboards, and Mark Moffatt on guitar, bass guitar and keyboards.

They used various guest vocalists. Their debut single, "Singin' in the '80s", was released in and reached No. A second single, "Nobody Told Me", peaked in the top The Monitors issued a sole album, Back from Their Recent Illness , for which Ricky Fataar had joined on drums, percussion, guitar and keyboards. The group disbanded in Overboard Shawners.

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